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When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.